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Back in February, rapper Kanye West held an impressive event to release his latest album The Life of Pablo. The occasion included the Kardashians (of course), models at the verge of collapse and special merchandise that caught everyone’s attention. Said garment, was an airbrushed T-shirt that depicted a portrait on each side, on the front the rapper’s late mother Donna West and on the back, Kim’s father Robert Kardashian that passed away in 2003. The one-of-a-kind tee was designed by artist Alan Pastrana and could only be purchased that night for the surprisingly accessible price of $40.
Then a couple of months ago, when Alexander Wang unveiled his Spring 2017 collection, the designer handed special airbrushed T-shirts to the models in the show that were referred to as the “wang squad”. These pieces, that almost outshined the Adidas exclusive merch, were specially produced for the occasion by New York-based artist Noel and cannot be found anywhere else.
Another interesting case is the one of the partnership between American retailer Gap and artist Heron Preston. The former designed a sweatsuit embellished with an airbrushed illustration of a bald eagle and a slogan that says “The Gap is an iconic American brand for the people”. This move is worth noting mostly because it is unusual for this particular company that it is not particularly known for its urban style. Only time will tell if the tactic will help them recapture Gap’s former glory. Meanwhile, the ensemble can be pre-ordered through Preston’s website for the price of $500.
As Rae Witte pointed out in Highsnobiety, airbrushed T-shirts never really went anywhere, therefore it shouldn’t be called a “comeback”, but then why are we noticing it more now than ever before?
First, we must understand where airbrushing comes from.
Some people trace an early version of airbrushing all the way back to prehistoric times, particularly because of paint techniques used in places like “Cueva de las manos” (Cave of the hands) in Santa Cruz, Argentina. But in order to not turn this blog post into an encyclopaedia, we’ll fast-forward all the way to 1893 when the first patent for an object that we could recognise as a modern airbrush was filed by a man called Charles Burdick in Great Britain.
Airbrushing first tried to become a viable way to make paintings, but it was quickly shunned by academics who reached the conclusion that because they came from a “machine” said works couldn’t be considered art. This is a belief that still permeates till this day. Even though airbrushing requires a great deal of study and dedication, some people don’t consider it art.
Instead, the technique found commercial success in advertising and photo retouching, hence the term “airbrushing photos.” Thanks to the industrial revolution, there were more products than ever, and airbrush designs allowed companies to present idealised images quickly. This continued until the late ’80s, when digital tools replaced traditional methods and many artists had to find new paths – like designing T-shirts.
Airbrushing is also used in many cases across different industries like special effects makeup, taxidermy, and even funerals.
It is hard to say when the first airbrushed T-shirts started being produced, although some sources point all the way back to the 50’s. In the US, airbrushed T-shirts are generally associated with county fairs, mall kiosks and boardwalk artists, but they got deeper roots in the Hip Hop and Street cultures.
These designs are often bold and expressive, though in some cases they can be limited by factors like size, colour options, or specific material constraints.
The Shirt Kings were Edwin “Phade” Sacasa, Rafael “Kasheme” Avery, and Clyde “Nike” Harewood, a group of graffiti artists that in the late 80’s moved from walls to fabrics by opening up a T-shirt shop in the Coliseum Mall in Queens. Nowadays they’re often credited as one of the leading forces behind the crossover of Hip Hop into mainstream culture.
They single-handedly didn’t create the movement, but they sure had a big aesthetic influence over it. Some state that the Shirt Kings did for hip-hop what Vivienne Westwood’s SEX in London did for punk back in the 70’s.
The line combined street art and cartoon characters* with portraits of famous people andwas worn by the most influential people in the hip-hop industry of the time, including Jay Z and Queen Latifah. Hip Hop was so prominent in the late 80’s and early 90’s that companies like Disney and Warner Brothers, brands that the Shirt Kings parodied, created an urban version of their characters to sell their own merchandise.
* One of their most famous designs was Mickey Mouse smoking crack.
The influence of the Shirt Kings cannot be argued, ripples of their style still reach today thanks to a book that was published in 2013, a new website on the works and artists of all walks of life keeping their legacy alive.
Things to know before you buy:
Light, pictures, and shipping can all affect how a design looks and arrives. Keep in mind that colors may appear slightly different depending on lighting or screen settings. Check shipping details and photo references when ordering online.
Along with Hip Hop, airbrushed T-shirts are often used as tools to remember the deceased among certain communities in the US. Just like Kanye did with his mother and father-in-law and Drake for Selena, airbrushing a portrait onto a T-shirt (sometimes denim jackets, as well) is a tradition to honour those who have passed away. Some going as far as to order a new piece every time the death anniversary comes along.
The following article explores the reality of a small printing apparel business that specialises, for better or worse, on customising R.I.P. T-shirts. It is an interesting read that bluntly describes the struggles of certain communities and how art can be used to deal with grief.
Airbrushed T-shirts are highly valued because they’re one of a kind. Even if the illustrations are done with a machine, the garments have to be drawn one by one which gives them a unique feel.
There’s also a love for the unconventional. Alexander Wang’s “squad” didn’t embrace those tees because it would help them during their mourning process, or for a love of Hip Hop, but more likely for the “exclusive” and the “off-beat” that the industry tends to embrace. Maybe even an appreciation for the “cheap* and ugly” — whatever it takes to make you stand out.
You won’t find these shirts on eBay, and most of them aren’t even sold online. You might have to write the artist directly, visit a local fair, or purchase from a small studio.
So why are we noticing airbrushed T-shirts more now? It could be the 90s revival, sure. But more importantly, it’s a quiet protest against the endless scroll of new items in fast fashion. Mass-produced clothing is easy to copy, but hand-painted, spray-based designs aren’t.
Customisation, as Rae Witte noted, has become a big trend because we’re tired of showing up at events only to find someone else in the same outfit. People want the kind of T-shirt that turns heads – even if just for a second.
Will the airbrush trend stay? Hard to say. But until someone finds a way to airbrush Tupac’s face on a Zara tank top, we expect it to last a while longer.
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